Island Peak Climbing-19 Days

Island Peak Climbing, named for its resemblance to an island a midst a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche, stands prominently as part of the South ridge of Lhotse Shar. This peak is surrounded by a semicircle of cliffs ascending to the North, showcasing the majestic summits of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak, and Lhotse.

Beginning an Island Peak Climbing does not necessitate prior climbing experience, although possessing such skills can be advantageous. Essential physical fitness and an acclimatization period are prerequisites before ascending. Our climbing Sherpa will provide a vital demonstration on climbing techniques and tool usage, ensuring a safe and successful climb.

Island Peak rises to 6,189m (20,305ft) above sea level, appearing as an island amid icy terrain. While demanding physical stamina, climbing it isn’t excessively challenging, ideal for beginners. As you ascend, your mountaineering skills will grow, enabling you to tackle Island Peak’s challenges with confidence.

The journey to conquer Island Peak commences with a 45-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, the Gateway of Everest Base Camp. Upon landing in Lukla, a brief trek to Phakding initiates the expedition towards Island Peak. The trek encompasses scenic stops at Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, and finally Chhukung, where the base camp situated on the south ridge of Island Peak is reached.

Starting early on the summit day is crucial, ascending a rocky ridge then a snow headwall to reach the peak. The panoramic views from Island Peak encompass Nuptse, Lhotse, Lhotse Central, Lhotse Shar, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, and Makalu, offering a magnificent experience in the Himalayas.

Experience the Island Peak Climb and immerse yourself in the breathtaking landscape views, traverse the off-road trails, and behold the majestic allure of this magnificent mountain.

Highlights:

• Summit Island Peak (6189m/20299ft), a thrilling accomplishment for climbers seeking Alpine Climbing Skills.
• Enjoy Stunning views of the world’s highest mountains, including Everest (8848m/29021 ft), Mt Nuptse (7,879m), Mt Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m), and more.
• Experience a Scenic mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, immersing you in Beautiful mountain views along the journey.
• Visit Namche Bazaar, the famous Sherpa hometown, to delve into the Sherpa village culture and lifestyle.
• Explore the ancient Tengboche monastery, a cultural gem nestled amidst the Himalayas.
• Encounter Wildlife such as musk deer, colorful pheasants, snow leopards, and Himalayan tahr during your trek.
• Engage with the local Sherpa people, gaining insights into their traditions and customs amidst the picturesque countryside of Nepal.

Best Time for Island Peak Climbing:

The timing of your Island Peak climbing adventure significantly impacts your experience. Optimal seasons for this expedition are during the spring and autumn months. These periods offer clear skies, minimal precipitation, and ideal temperatures, enhancing your chances of witnessing the Golden Mountain view and immersing in the Sherpa village culture.

March to April:

Considered one of the prime seasons for Island Peak trekking and climbing, March to April unveils breathtaking Himalayan panoramas and glaciers. With warming temperatures, dormant flora and fauna reawaken, thriving under the sun’s gentle rays. Clear azure skies complement the snow-capped mountains perfectly, creating postcard-worthy scenes.

Temperature: Around 18°C during the daytime, dropping to approximately -12°C at night.

May to June:

Pre-monsoon months like May and June offer pleasant trekking conditions just before the monsoon’s onset. These months combine the charm of spring and the onset of summer, presenting favorable climbing opportunities amidst scenic surroundings.

Temperature – Averages around 25°C during the daytime, with nighttime temperatures hovering around -5°C.

July to August:

The monsoon season from July to August brings intense rains, impacting visibility and causing trails to become slippery. This period poses challenges, including flight cancellations to Lukla due to weather conditions. While climbing remains feasible, it requires careful planning and preparation.

Temperature – Daytime temperatures reach around 25°C, with nighttime temperatures around 5°C.

September to October for Island Peak Climbing:

Considered an excellent season for Island Peak Climbing, September to October follows the monsoon’s retreat, offering clear skies and stunning mountain vistas. These months witness a surge in climbers seeking optimal trekking conditions.

Temperature – Averages around 20°C during the daytime, dropping to about 5°C at night.

November to December:

As winter approaches, November experiences snowfalls, adding a layer of difficulty to reaching Island Peak. Despite this, clear days during November present exceptional views. December sees a further drop in temperatures and increased snowfall at higher elevations.

Temperature: Around 18°C during the daytime in November, decreasing to approximately -10°C at night.

January to February:

These months mark the coldest period with heavy snowfall, particularly in January. February sees a gradual easing of winter, allowing for safer trekking conditions. However, it remains essential to prepare adequately for the cold, especially during the night.

Temperature: Day time temperatures average around 15°C, with night time temperatures plummeting to around -15°C.

Permits Required for Island Peak Climbing:

For the Island Peak Climbing adventure, securing the necessary permits is crucial. Here are the essential permits you’ll need to acquire:

Sagarmatha National Park Permit: Being part of the Everest region and offering mesmerizing Golden Mountain views, Island Peak falls within the boundaries of the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To access this area and embark on your trekking and climbing journey, you must obtain a Sagarmatha National Park Permit. These permits are obtainable from the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or directly at the park entrance in Monjo. The cost of the Sagarmatha National Park Permit is NPR 3000 per person per entry.

Khumbu Rural Municipality Permit: As the Khumbu region encompasses Sherpa villages, rich culture, and picturesque countryside, climbers are required to obtain a Khumbu Rural Municipality Permit. This permit is a local regulation enforced in Lukla, the starting point for many treks and climbs in the Everest region. The cost of the Khumbu Rural Municipality Permit is NRS 2000.

Island Peak Climbing Permit: Specifically tailored for climbers heading to Island Peak, this permit is essential for the expedition. To obtain this permit, you’ll need to submit the required documentation, pay the designated fee, and adhere to the guidelines set by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) guidelines. The permit costs USD 250 per person in spring and USD 125 in autumn.

Transitioning from obtaining these permits to embarking on your Island Peak climbing journey is seamless, ensuring compliance with local regulations and enabling you to explore the stunning Sherpa villages, experiences the unique culture, and relish the breathtaking mountain views of Nepal.

Cost of Island Peak:

The cost for Island Peak Climbing in 2024 and 2025 varies depending on the size of your group. Our offerings include Island Peak Climbing trips at different rates, starting at USD 1980, contingent upon your group size.

Island Peak Climb Difficulty:

The challenge of climbing Island Peak can vary significantly based on factors such as the chosen route, the climber’s experience, fitness level, and weather conditions. Generally, it is regarded as moderately challenging, primarily due to altitude and technical requirements.

Altitude: Island Peak’s elevation of 6,189 meters (20,305 feet) exposes climbers to high-altitude conditions, necessitating careful acclimatization to manage altitude sickness risks. Adequate time for acclimatization and a gradual ascent are crucial.

Technical Skills: While the Southwest Ridge route is less technical compared to some other Himalayan peaks, it still requires fundamental mountaineering skills. Climbers should be proficient in using crampons, ice axes, ropes, and glacier travel techniques. The North Ridge route is more demanding, necessitating advanced mountaineering skills.

Weather Conditions for Island Peak Climb: Weather in the Everest region is known for its unpredictability, characterized by rapid changes and the potential for extreme conditions. Climbers embarking on Island Peak expeditions must be well-prepared for variable weather throughout their journey, including cold temperatures, high winds, and potential snowfall. It’s crucial to have good gear and appropriate clothing to ensure a safe and successful climb.

Things to Manage before Climbing the Island Peak:

Before embarking on the Island Peak climb, there are several crucial aspects to manage for a successful and enjoyable expedition:

Comfortable Camping: Ensure you have comfortable camping gear, including a durable tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad, for a restful night’s sleep during the trek.

Right Clothing, Gear, and Equipment: Pack appropriate clothing for varying weather conditions, including warm layers, waterproof jackets and pants, sturdy hiking boots, and essential climbing gear like harnesses, crampons, and ice axes.

Season of Climb: Choose the right season for the climb, typically during the Spring (March to May) or Autumn (September to November) seasons, to experience favorable weather conditions and clear mountain views.

Specific Physical Conditioning: Engage in specific physical conditioning and endurance training to prepare your body for the rigors of high-altitude trekking and climbing.

Pick the Right and Suitable Itinerary: Select an itinerary that aligns with your fitness level, time constraints, and climbing experience, ensuring a safe and enjoyable journey to the summit.

Previous Altitude Experience: Having prior experience with high altitudes can be beneficial for acclimatization and reducing the risk of altitude-related illnesses.

Manage Your Personal Hygiene and Health: Maintain good personal hygiene and health practices throughout the trek, including staying hydrated, eating nutritious meals, and following proper sanitation measures.

Additional Winter Skills Training: Consider undertaking additional training in winter mountaineering skills, such as crevasse rescue and snow camping, to enhance your preparedness for challenging conditions.

Break in Your Trekking and Mountaineering Boots: Ensure your trekking and mountaineering boots are well broken-in to prevent blisters and discomfort during long hikes and climbs.

Qualified Climbing Guide:

Choose a qualified climbing guide who holds a Climbing License from the Nepal Mountaineering Association, ensuring expertise and safety throughout the expedition.

Choose an Experienced Local Company: opt for an experienced local trekking and climbing company with a proven track record in organizing successful expeditions to Island Peak.

Get the Necessary Permits: Ensure your trekking company manages the necessary climbing permits, including the Island Peak climbing permit, to comply with local regulations and regulations.

By managing these aspects effectively, you can enhance your overall experience and increase the chances of a successful Island Peak climb in Nepal.

Island Peak Climb Itinerary:

Day 1: Kathmandu – Fly to Lukla, Trek to Phakding

Begin your adventure with a picturesque flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, offering stunning views of Everest and the surrounding mountains. Upon arrival, meet your team and trek alongside the Dudh Koshi River to Phakding.

Elevations: Kathmandu 1350m, Lukla 2840m, Phakding 2600m

Duration: Approx. 4 hours

Day 2: Phakding – Namche Bazaar

Continue north along the Dudh Koshi River to Jorsale, entering the Sagarmatha National Park. Cross the ImjaDrangpa and Nangpo Tsangpo rivers before a steep climb to Namche Bazaar, a vibrant Sherpa town.

Elevation: Namche Bazaar 3440m

Duration: Approx. 6 hours

Day 3: Rest Day

Take a day to acclimatize in Namche Bazaar. Explore the village or opt for an acclimatization walk to places like Khunde Hospital or the Everest Hotel for stunning mountain views.

Day 4: Namche – Tyangboche

Follow the trail high above the river, enjoying panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and AmaDablam. Descend to PhunkiTenga, cross the river, and climb through a beautiful forest to Tyangboche.

Elevation: Tyangboche 3860m

Duration: Approx. 6 hours

Day 5: Tyangboche – Dingboche

Descend through forests to Deboche, cross the river, and climb to Pangboche for lunch. Enjoy views of Ama Dablam as you continue to Dingboche.

Elevation: Dingboche 4300m

Duration: Approx. 6 hours

Acclimatization during Island Peak Climbing:

Day 6: Acclimatize

Take a rest day in Dingboche to acclimatize and explore the surroundings.

Day 7: Dingboche to Chhukung

Follow the trail with stunning views of Imja Khola Valley and glimpse Lhotse and Ama Dablam. Reach Chhukung, a small Sherpa village with breathtaking mountain views.

Elevation: Chhukung 4730m

Duration: Approx. 3-4 hours

Day 8: Rest Day, Climb Chhukung Ri

Another rest day in Chhukung to acclimatize or climb Chhukung Ri for panoramic views.

Day 9: Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp

Follow a steep trail to the south and then east, passing through glacier moraines to Island Peak Base Camp.

Elevation: Island Peak Base Camp 5200m

Duration: Approx. 3-4 hours

Climb Training for Island Peak Claiming

Day 10: Pre-Climb Training

Attend pre-climbing training and prepare for the ascent.

Day 11-12: Climbing Period

Begin the climb early morning to reach the summit before noon. Enjoy breathtaking views from the top before descending to Base Camp.

Elevation: Island Peak 6189m

Duration: Approx. 10-12 hours

Day 13: Base Camp to Pangboche

Descend to Pangboche, retracing your steps and passing through settlements.

Elevation: Pangboche 3985m

Duration: Approx. 5-6 hours

Day 14: Pangboche to Namche Bazaar

Continue trekking to Namche Bazaar, passing Tyngboche monastery along the way.

Duration: Approx. 4-5 hours

Day 15: Namche Bazaar – Lukla

Descend back to Lukla, enjoying an easier trail and the familiar sights.

Elevation: Lukla 2840m

Duration: Approx. 7 hours

Day 16: Lukla – Kathmandu

Catch an early morning flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu.

Island Peak Climbing Elevation Guide:

The elevation and altitude profile of the Island Peak climbing expedition in Nepal are meticulously structured to facilitate climbers’ acclimatization to the high-altitude conditions. Below is a concise overview of the Island Peak climbing elevation and altitude Profile

Kathmandu (1350m, 4429 ft):

The adventure commences in Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital city, nestled at an altitude of approximately 1350 meters above sea level.

Lukla (2860 m /9383 ft):

Following a picturesque flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, climbers touch down at Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, positioned at an elevation of about 2840 meters.

Phakding (2600m, /8700 ft):

The trek sets off with a descent to Phakding, a charming village nestled along the Dudh Koshi River, at an altitude of roughly 2600 meters.

Namche Bazaar (3,440 m/11,290 ft):

Climbers ascend to Namche Bazaar, a vibrant Sherpa town and a crucial acclimatization hub, situated at an altitude of approximately 3440 meters.

Tyangboche (3860m/12664ft):

The journey progresses to Tyangboche, renowned for its monastery and captivating vistas of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam, at an elevation of about 3860 meters.

Dingboche (4,300m/14,107ft):

Climbers advance to Dingboche, a village ensconced amidst towering peaks, positioned at around 4300 meters above sea level.

Chhukung (4,730m/15,518ft):

The trail leads to Chhukung, offering awe-inspiring panoramas of the surrounding mountains, at an altitude of approximately 4730 meters.

Island Peak Base Camp (5,200m/17,060ft):

After adequate acclimatization and readiness, climbers arrive at Island Peak Base Camp, located at an elevation of about 5200 meters, where they undergo training and relaxation before the final push to the summit.

Island Peak Summit (6,165 m/ 20,226 ft):

The ultimate ascent entails scaling the summit of Island Peak, achieving an impressive altitude of 6165 meters, providing sweeping views of Everest and adjacent peaks.

Descend and Return:

Following a successful summit of Island Peak, climbers descend back to Lukla via a similar route, gradually descending in altitude and allowing for proper acclimatization during the return journey.

This meticulously planned elevation and altitude profile ensures effective acclimatization, mitigating the risks associated with high altitudes and enhancing the overall safety and success of the Island Peak climbing expedition.

Lukla Flight Baggage Limit:

The maximum weight limit for baggage on Lukla flights is 15 kg, equivalent to 33 pounds, including your day pack or handbag. If your luggage exceeds these weight limits, additional charges of USD 1–2 per kg will apply, and payment must be made at the airport counter.

Travel Insurance for Island Peak Climb:

Comprehensive travel insurance is strongly recommended for Island Peak climbing to cover personal accountability, accidents, or illnesses. A certificate of insurance for emergency assistance, medical support, evacuation, and search operations may be required depending on the activity. It’s essential to note that such services are not complimentary in Nepal, and helicopter evacuation is contingent upon confirmation of insurance coverage.

Accommodation:

Your accommodation during the Island Peak climb encompasses diverse settings, ensuring comfort and safety throughout your journey.

In Kathmandu, both before and after your trek, you will find accommodation in a hotel. The options available range from basic guest houses to luxurious establishments, catering to various budgets and preferences.

As you embark on the trek to Island Peak Base Camp, you’re lodging transitions to teahouses or lodges, situated in different villages along the route. These teahouses provide a blend of simplicity and comfort, typically featuring twin beds in each room and shared bathroom facilities.

Upon reaching Island Peak Base Camp and ascending to High Camp, your accommodation shifts to camping in tents. These tents are sturdy and designed for all seasons, ensuring resilience against the challenging weather conditions you may encounter. Typically, two individuals share a tent, fostering a cozy and secure environment during your climb.

This variety in accommodation settings ensures that you have a comfortable and rejuvenating experience at every stage of your Island Peak climb, from the vibrant cityscape of Kathmandu to the serene wilderness of the mountainous terrain.

Communication during Peak Climbing:

During the Island Peak Climbing, communication is facilitated through internet services available at lodges, typically requiring a small service charge. This allows climbers to stay connected with their family and friends. However, as we ascend to higher altitudes, communication primarily relies on phones for safety purposes.

Our trek teams maintain daily communication through our experienced trek guides, ensuring the trek progresses smoothly. If needed, climbers can contact our head office for assistance. While purchasing a local SIM card in Kathmandu is an option, it’s important to note that mobile signals may weaken at higher elevations.

For additional connectivity, Wi-Fi services are available at lodges and teahouses along the trekking route, providing climbers with the convenience of staying connected during their journey.

Island Peak Climbing Meals:

Meals during Island Peak Climb are essential, given the high elevations and demanding nature of the trek. To ensure your body receives the necessary nutrients and energy, we provide a variety of delicious and hygienic meals throughout the journey.

Throughout the Island Peak Climbing adventure, you will enjoy a total of 14 breakfasts, 14 lunches, and 13 dinners, carefully prepared to cater to your dietary needs and preferences.

Here are some of the popular menu items you can expect:

For Breakfast:

• Local Tsampa porridge
• Eggs (cooked to your liking)
• Oatmeal
• Corn Flakes
• French toast with Jam, Butter, Cheese, or Honey
• Tibetan bread or Chapatti
• Pancakes
• Muesli
• Breads
• Fresh Fruits and Vegetables
• Hot drinks such as various teas, coffees, and hot chocolates

For Lunch:

• Dhal, Bhat & Tarkari (a traditional Nepali meal with lentils, rice, and vegetable curry)
• Tibetan Bread
• Vegetable curry
• Potatoes in various forms
• Various Soups
• Sherpa Stew
• Steaks
• Sandwiches
• Momo (dumplings)
• Macaroni dishes
• Tenduk
• Spaghetti Noodles
• Thukpa (a Tibetan noodle soup)
• Pasta
• Salads
• Pizza (Tomato, Mushroom, Mixed)
• Snacks like Papad and Prawn
• Desserts such as Rice Pudding and Apple pie

For Dinner:

Similar options to lunch, including Dhal, Bhat & Tarkari, Tibetan Bread, Macaroni, Tenduk, Spaghetti, Noodles Thukpa, Pasta, Vegetable curry, Potato items, Vegetable and Salad Pizza, Various Soups, Sherpa Stew, Steaks, Sandwiches, Momo, Snacks, Korean Ramen, Desserts items like Rice Pudding and Apple pie.

Our meals are designed to keep you energized and nourished throughout the challenging trek, ensuring you have a comfortable and enjoyable Island Peak climbing experience amidst Nepal’s stunning countryside.

Tipping Guidelines:

Tipping is a personal choice and should reflect your satisfaction with the service, the duration of your trek, and the overall expenses incurred during the journey. In Nepali customs, tipping is a gesture of gratitude for excellent service. It’s advisable to consider tipping collectively at the trek’s end for fairness and transparency in acknowledgment of the team’s efforts.

Lukla Flight Delays/Cancellations:

Typically, flights from October to May operate smoothly. However, delays or cancellations can occur due to high altitudes, adverse weather conditions, or unforeseen technical issues. It’s advisable to allocate an extra day or two for your trip to account for potential flight disruptions.

In the event of a delay or cancellation, airlines may rebook your flight for the following day after a few hours of waiting at the airport. However, securing a seat on the first or second available flights can be challenging due to prior bookings. You may need to wait for later flights or opt for a helicopter transfer on the same day.

Alternatively, consider switching your trekking route to destinations like Langtang Gosainkunda or Annapurna Base Camp Lake Trek if you prefer not to incur additional costs for a helicopter flight to Lukla.

Should you choose a helicopter flight, expect an additional cost ranging from USD 300 to 500, inclusive of the regular flight ticket in a shared arrangement. Chartering a helicopter may incur higher costs, typically between USD 2500 to 3500.

We recommend incorporating extra days into your Everest Trek itinerary to allow flexibility for rescheduling. Additionally, ensure your international flight ticket departing from Kathmandu is changeable to avoid complications in case of delays or changes in your Lukla flight schedule.

Cancellation Policy:

In case of trip cancellation for any reason, the 20% deposit will not be refunded. If the full trip amount has been paid and cancellation is necessary, a 20% cancellation charge will still apply, with the remaining amount refunded.

Child Policy for Island Peak Climbing:

For the safety and enjoyment of all participants, we regret to inform you that this tour is not recommended for children below 15 years old. Trekking in Island Peak involves varying altitudes, rugged terrain, and physical exertion that may not be suitable for young children. We prioritize the well-being of our trekkers and ensure a safe and fulfilling experience for all. Thank you for your understanding.

Gear list for Island Peak Climbing: